第24题:
问答题
Practice 1 The forger’s greatest advantage is that many buyers wait years before opening their fraudulent bottles, if they open them at all. Bill Koch told me that he owns wine that he has no intention of ever drinking. He collects bottles from certain vineyards almost as if they were baseball cards, aiming to complete a set. “I just want a hundred and fifty years of Lafitte on the wall,” he said. He would hesitate before consuming the harder-to-come-by vintages, because to do so would render the set incomplete, and also because the rarest old wines often come not from the best vintages but from the worst. Historically, when good vintages were produced, collectors would lay them down to see how they would age, Koch explained. But when renowned vineyards produced mediocre vintages, people would drink them soon after they were bottled, making the vintage scarce. The second great advantage for wine forgers is that when collectors do open fraudulent bottles, they often lack the experience and acute sense of taste to know that they have been defrauded. To begin with, even genuine old wines vary enormously from bottle to bottle. “It’s a living organism,” Sotheby’s Serena Sutcliffe told me. “It moves, it changes, it evolves-and once you’re into wines that are 40, 50, 60 years old, even if the bottles are stored side by side in similar conditions, you will get big differences between bottles.” Studies suggest that the experience of smelling and tasting wine is extremely susceptible to interference from the cognitive parts of the brain. Several years ago, Frédéric Brochet, a Ph. D. student in oenology at the University of Bordeaux, did a study in which he served 57 participants amid range red Bordeaux from a bottle with a label indicating that it was a modest vendee table. A week later, he served the same wine to the same subjects, but this time poured from a bottle indicating that the wine was a grand cru. Whereas the tasters found the wine from the first bottle “simple”, “unbalanced” and “weak”, they found the wine from the second “complex”, “balanced” and “full”. Brochet argues that our “perceptive expectation” arising from the label often governs our experience of a wine, overriding our actual, sensory response to whatever is in the bottle. Thus there is a bolder kind of forger who actually substitutes one type of wine for another. He often works with genuine bottles bearing genuine labels, obtaining empties from restaurants or antique shops, filling them with another type-or types-of wine, and replacing the cork and the capsule, assuming that the status-conscious buyer will never taste the difference. And, in many cases, this assumption is right. Sutcliffe believes that the vast majority of fake wines are happily enjoyed. Rajat Parr, a prominent wine director who oversees restaurants in Las Vegas, told me that several years ago, some of his customers ordered a bottle of 1982 Pttrus, which can sell in restaurants for as much as 6,000 dollars.
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参考译文
造假者最大的优势莫过于多数买了假酒的主顾往往要等上好几年才开瓶品尝,有的甚至从不启盖。比尔·考克告诉我说他买了珍品葡萄酒从来就没有想过要品尝。他收藏某一家酒厂的产品,就像是收藏棒球运动员名片,目的是集满一整套才罢休。“我就是想把150年以来拉非特生产的所有葡萄酒一种不落地全部陈列在墙边的架子上,”他说。他会考虑再三才舍得将一瓶得来不易的酒喝掉,一旦喝掉,再凑一套就不容易了。还有一个原因是,古老珍稀的陈葡萄酒是当年生产的质量糟糕的酒,而不是上等酒。从历史上看,优质酒生产出来,收藏家们纷纷买来束之高阁,观察如何变成陈酒;而有名的酒厂生产出质量差强人意的酒则往往装瓶后不久即被喝掉,结果,这种葡萄酒的数量就日渐稀少。考克解释说。
葡萄酒造假者第二点优势是收藏家一旦真的打开酒瓶,一般情况下他们也往往缺乏经验和敏锐的味觉,无法辨别自己喝的是搀假的酒。不说别的,即使是真酒,每一瓶的口味也各不相同。“酒就像生物一样,”索士比拍卖行的撒里那·苏克里夫告诉我,“不断活动,不断变化,不断演进—一旦酒收藏了40、50、60年,即使收藏条件相同,并排摆放,两瓶酒之间口味也有很大的差别。”
研究表明,酒的嗅觉、味觉特别容易受到大脑中专司认知的细胞的干扰。波尔多大学酿酒学系博士生福瑞德里克·布卢切做过一个实验,他让57位被试品尝从同一个酒瓶中倒出的品质中等的波尔多红酒,标签上表明是普通餐用葡萄酒。一周之后,他拿出完全一样的红葡萄酒让同样的57位被试品尝。所不同的是,这次酒瓶上注明是用本地特产葡萄制成的红酒。被试喝着第一只瓶子里的酒,发现味道单调、不均衡、清淡,而第二只瓶子里的酒味道丰富,均衡,浓烈。布卢切认为人们看到标签得到的“感觉期待”往往左右人们对酒的评价,要超过人们感官对瓶中物的实际感觉。
还有的造假者胆子更大,他们认为品牌意识很强的买家永远无法品出不同的酒味,于是用一种酒冒充另一种酒。常见的手法是从酒店或者古玩店买来贴有真标签、装过真酒的瓶子,往里面灌装另一种酒或者将几种酒掺到一起灌进去,然后换一个木塞或者盖子。造假者的这种认识基本没错。苏克里夫相信,假酒绝大部分都这样高高兴兴被喝了下去。拉贾特·巴尔是拉斯维加斯负责监管餐馆的酒类督导,很有名气,他告诉我说几年前一位顾客要了一瓶1982年的佩特鲁司酒,这种酒在餐馆出售,可以卖到每瓶6000美元。
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